Before my holidays are gone for ever -- Part 2

Back in September 2010 I blogged about my 'Swedish fantasy', in which I used Google Street View to cross the Oresund Bridge and 'tour' southern Sweden. I imagined spotting Olafur Eliasson's 'Movement Meter for Lernacken' up on the right as I 'drove' towards Malmo. This summer the fantasy became reality and the above photo (actually not much better than what you see on GoogleSV) was taken from our taxi as it came off the bridge and bore us towards Malmo. I just took it to record the weird feeling of virtual reality becoming 'real reality'.

In Malmo we stayed at the Mayfair Tunneln Hotel, which I wouldn't mention except that the building turned out to have a very interesting history, having been a row of medieval shops, a seventeenth-century cellar-inn, the residence of the Governor of Skane (also in the 17th C), a sugar refinery (late 18th C), the offices of Malmo's chief newspaper and a library. The hotel was also very proud of it many famous visitors, including two of the Beatles (I think it was Paul and George) who once had a coffee down in the cellar bar after they had been refused entry to a nearby restaurant for lack of ties.

It was a very pleasant hotel (they changed the big doormat each day so that it read 'Have a good Monday', 'Have a good Tuesday' and so on) and the very best thing about it was the fantastic breakfast which was taken down in the 'Tunnel', the original medieval cellars. Sumptuous doesn't begin to describe it. I had to be dragged away each morning, or shamed into crawling away.

 We liked Malmo a lot, but some of the architecture seemed to cry out to be rendered in black and white. The centre was very good for wandering about in. Streets would open up into big squares or smaller, more intimate ones. We came across a wondrous antique shop which had piles of stuff on the floor, quite a lot of it broken. It drew us further and further in and we found some of the Stig Lindberg Salix cups that we like so much.

We also found some amazing charity shops, so huge that they were almost like department stores. Malmo has a strong recycling policy and has encouraged these big shops to try to increase the level of re-use of secondhand things. I could have spent hours in them but it didn't suit the others so much. I may have to go back for a secret charity-shop OD.

 Malmo has an offshoot of the Stockholm Moderna Museet, the Modern Art Museum, housed in this old building encased in orange mesh. I love the mesh and the strange light effects it makes.

 The beautiful ground floor space was given over to an Irving Penn retrospective, which we all really enjoyed.

 Upstairs there was a Niki de Saint Phalle show. I hadn't previously been a big fan of her work, but this retrospective caught my interest and I particularly liked her large pieces embedded with toys and other objects. These terrible photos don't begin to do them justice. I'd like to read a biography about her as the account of her life on Wikipedia is fascinating.

One of the best things we did in Malmo was to take the train to Lund, the nearby university town. Malmo train station itself was architecturally interesting and I loved the idea they'd had to play films of train journeys on the walls. The images move silently and dreamily and are very absorbing while you await the arrival of the real train.

Lund was beautiful with an older feel than Malmo. The best thing about it, for me, was Kulturen, a museum similar in spirit to Skansen, the highlight of our trip to Stockholm last year.

Like Skansen, Kulturen is an accumulation of old Swedish buildings with authentic interiors, but it had more of a museum element along the lines of, say, the V&A. There were lots of textile displays and an emphasis on handmade objects. It was all delightful. Again, I felt I could happily have spent much longer there. Just a few photos:

an exquisite candelabra

a colour chart -- wish I had it for my collection

At Kulturen, as at Skansen, I again experienced the strange feeling of being connected to a past that isn't that of my own culture. I think it's just that these painstaking re-creations make the past feel very near; also I guess there are some fairly close links between England's past and that of Scandinavia (especially in the North-East, where I come from -- there are a lot of similarities in the local food, for example, such as rollmops and pease pudding...). But perhaps I would feel the same visceral connection if I visited a recreated American Indian site or an Inca city. Maybe it's just the imagination at work.

On our last evening in Malmo we went to a really lovely restaurant right on the waterfront in the newly redeveloped dock area, Salt och Brygga ('Salt and Bridge'). This restaurant serves only organic food and is part of the 'slow food' movement. Not only that, but everything about the place has been carefully thought through, right down to the candles and the seats. The candles are made of renewable materials and don't give off greenhouse gases. The leather on the seats has been tanned using bark instead of chromium. Such attention to detail is apparent in the food as well, which was absolutely beautiful, decorated with edible flowers (which we did eat).

We sat outside and had a beautiful view of the Oresund Bridge as the sun went down.

And I was excited because in the taxi on the way there, we had passed the fantastic Turning Torso tower. I stuck my hand out of the window and snatched a photo which, amazingly, actually caught the tower. What an inspired structure.

Our few days in Malmo were over and it was time to move on. We were hiring a car to drive down to the southern tip of Sweden. We nearly didn't make it out of the city as the car was so high tech we couldn't even start the engine -- then we couldn't work out how to let the handbrake off (a button did the trick eventually, after much stressful consultation of Google Translate on a mobile phone...). But eventually we were on Route E22 and heading for Wallander Land... (stay tuned for Pt 3).

Before my holidays are gone for ever -- Part 1

Woaah, it feels strange stepping back onto my blog after a fairly long hiatus. Sorry for the silence. I can't really blame the fact that I've been on holiday, as that was only two weeks out of quite a few more than that. But it's the desire to do a holiday post that has actually delayed my return because it's just so daunting.
     I have over 500 holiday photos, most of them really poor, and they have to be waded through and weeded out. And I want to write about the holiday in some detail so that I have a good record of it, but it all takes sooo much time. Still... here we go.

The above two photos are my visual clues as to where we've been: a chance version of the flag of the first country we went to (seen on the side of a boat) and blue and yellow flowers for the other country (in a planter there). Have you guessed yet? Not too difficult really: Denmark and Sweden.

We flew to Copenhagen, the brevity of the flight bringing home just how close Skandinavia is to us in the UK. Copenhagen was founded in the late twelfth century by the dashing chap above, Absalon, who combined being a bishop with being a warrior in a way that seems entirely unfeasible today.

Based on a very fleeting acquaintance with its history, Copenhagen's golden age seems to have been between the mid sixteenth century and the mid eighteenth century. The buildings from that period still give the city its flavour, particularly the wonderful spires which dot the skyline. My two favourites are above. The one on the left has a spiral staircase up the outside of it that you can climb up (alas, we didn't) and dates from 1747 (Church of Our Saviour). The twisted spire on the right dates from 1640 and was supposed to show four dragons with their tails entwined, but as no one knew what dragons really looked like they were modelled on crocodiles. This one is on the roof of the beautiful old Stock Exchange building.

We felt very relaxed as soon as we arrived in Copenhagen. It was very laidback and we hadn't done any of our usual slightly obsessive planning of what we wanted to do. We just set out from our hotel and wandered. We soon found ourselves at Nyhavn, the old canalside street full of cafes which is really the heart of the 'tourist' centre but it didn't feel tacky, just friendly and welcoming. We went down into the sunken ground floor of what seemed to be a really old pub/restaurant for something to eat and, feeling the Skandi-love, I decided to have the herring buffet. Ten or twelve different 'ways with herring'! And just some new potatoes, bread and radishes to leaven the herringness.

I did enjoy my gigantic plate of fish but now that I've had it once I don't think I'll ever need to have it again. Under all the various sauces, it was very much still herring.

My 'slot' to photograph the Little Mermaid before the chafing Japanese tourists asked me to move out of the way

Over the course of our three days in Denmark we had a lovely, relaxed time just pottering about. It's a city I now know I want to go back to, because there's a massive amount to do but you would need to have the energy and determination to do it, travelling out of the city to various museums and interesting satellite towns as well as hunting out all the cool stuff in the city itself. There is so much great architecture to see, for starters. The building I most regret not going to see is Grundtvig's Expressionist church:

Closely followed by the Royal Hotel, designed in the Sixties by Arne Jacobsen. Now a Radisson Blu hotel, you can visit Room 606, which is the only room still furnished with Jacobsen's specially designed furniture:

 On a whim we jumped onto a canal boat cruise and thus got to see some fantastic new buildings (the new National Theatre, the new Opera House, the new National Library, a super-trendy floating hotel which I would like to stay in one day) and some beautiful older ones too, particularly the canalside area of Christianshavn.We also saw an MA art show at the Nikolaj Tower, a decommissioned church which made a brilliantly gothic art gallery:

There was art to be found all over the city, even underwater. This spooky merman and his seven merchildren gaze up from beneath the surface of the canal, imploring their human wife and mother to come back to them:

And I also liked this sculptural maze (easy to cheat, though):

We loved Norrebro, the district to the north-west of the city centre, which has streets of great vintage shops, and also the boho University district. We also went to the Danish Design Centre and saw a good exhibition about new materials.

Of course, it wouldn't be a proper trip to Copenhagen without a visit to the Tivoli Gardens, which I had been repeatedly urged to go to by my Dad, who thinks they are heaven on earth. They were very nice (but my idea of heaven on earth is to follow, in part two of this blog) and the buildings reminded me a little of the Festival of Britain back in 1951 (a very good thing):

It felt very safe and our kids were able to go off to the rides while we had a nice lunch.

My kids coming down to earth (at the top of the picture)

During this lunch we started talking to a Danish lady who told us that our visit coincided with the 'three days for Greenlanders' when lots of attractions in Denmark (or possibly just in Copenhagen) were free for citizens of Greenland, which, you may remember from that episode in Borgen, has a slightly difficult colonial sort of relationship with Denmark.

Tivoli clown statue

On our last morning in Denmark we walked in search of Christiania and went too far, finding instead the handsome old military barracks which have been redeveloped to give a home to new enterprises and also the national film school, drama school and art school. We were a little taken aback to see a naked couple swimming in the river, but also pleased because they were like a little symbol of Scandinavian freedom and enlightenment. Good for them.

Christiania is a self-declared 'free state' within Copenhagen, mostly famous for openly selling drugs. We were just curious to see it but only stayed for about ten minutes as it felt a bit paranoid and sinister. There were a great many signs everywhere forbidding photography, and I don't suppose the drugs on sale are any freer from dodginess and misery up the supply-chain than anywhere else. It's pretty amazing (to us from the uptight UK) that such an enclave is tolerated, but perhaps the city think it somehow practical to corral the hippies and dopedealers there -- not all of them, obviously, but a fair number -- and practise a kind of vigilant tolerance. I think there are signs that the authorities may try to close it down at some time in the not too distant future. A great set of photos from inside Christiania by Maja Daniels here.

This first leg of our holiday was over (apart from a last, farewell bounce on the trampolines set into the pavement just by our hotel) and so we got a taxi to take us to the train station. But when the driver found out we were going to take the train across the Oresund Bridge to Sweden, he offered to drive us right to the door of our hotel in Malmo. We had so much luggage that, after thinking briefly about how much it was going to cost, we sagged back in the upholstery and said, 'Yes please'. So it was in grand style that we crossed the beautiful and famous bridge, humming the theme tune to The Killing as we went.

Tune in next time for Malmo and Lund in Part Two... (Here's a little taster)